Saturday, April 12, 2008

Taiwan Day 6 - Tainan and Nankunshen

Taiwanese Literature Library
Built during the Japanese Occupation of Taiwan. I had no idea that Japan owned Taiwan and then gave it to China after World War II. Just another one of those things I missed from not studying in history class, I guess.
Confucius Temple
There was a pretty nice park surrounding the temple that I didn't spend much time relaxing in because I wanted to give myself enough time to visit another city at the end of the day (getting lost in Lukang taught me a lesson).One aspect of Confucian Temples that I find interesting is that there are no decorations on the walls and very little color adorning the temple. The shrines don't have any idols or images, and the main area is so simple.Even though it was Tomb Sweep weekend, the inner courtyard was so peaceful and practically devoid of human life (you had to pay to go in).The outer courtyard, however, was a different story. There was some kind of event going on where you could get all kinds of stuff for free (we like free).This was some kind of bean flour that they ground with twigs and what looked to be dried seaweed. You mix it in water and pour the gritty mixture down your throat. Doesn't sound very delicious? It wasn't.You could also make tea the traditional way, by rolling the leaves around with your palms until your hands turn green, then drying the leaves in the sun. I did it only to be polite because the ladies let me take a photo and then wasn't too thrilled with my new green hands.On the other side of the temple away from all the hubbub some people were having a lesson in Confucianism. I wish I knew more Chinese. When I say "more", I mean "more than nothing".It was probably the nicest place to relax in the city. I wish I'd had more time to just wander around enjoying the fair and seeing some of the performances.I don't really know what kinds of performances were scheduled, but it appears one of them had monks. Or monk-like creatures.
Lunch and my new friend
I ate at the same vegetarian restaurant as the day before (the one with stuff that looked like meat) because I was curious to see what else they had. This time I got an imitation of sweet and sour pork!While I was sitting there eating by myself, I heard the owner lady saying the Japanese word for "grandmother". I thought to myself, "Wow, Chinese sounds so much like Japanese sometimes." I heard her saying the same word over and over again. "Grandmother. Grandmother. Grandmother." Then I looked up and saw that she was staring straight at me, and there was an old woman sitting next to her.

The owner lady thought I was Japanese. The old woman sitting next to her could speak Japanese. I suspect she called the old woman to come to the shop to keep me company, since I was eating by myself two days in a row. I didn't feel the need to explain that actually I was born in America and now live in Japan, and I just played along and pretended to be Japanese.

The old woman had grown up during the time when Taiwan was owned by Japan and compulsory education was taught in Japanese. I have no idea how old she was, but probably very old. She was super friendly and kept asking me the same questions and repeating the same stories. It was fun talking to her, mostly because she seemed so happy talking with someone in Japanese and had a huge smile on her face the whole time. Every once in a while she translated questions that the young couple sitting at another table had about me, like if I was travelling alone and how long I'd been in Taiwan. I stayed and talked with her for half an hour after finishing my meal, and then really had to continue on my way. Talking with my new friend was the best part of my day.

Elementary School
I wanted to know what this building was because it looked so new and modern. A peek into the windows revealed small wooden desks and tiny wooden chairs. The building was new, but the furniture looked ancient. What an unexpected contrast.The large park was bordered on two sides by classroom buildings, and on the third side was this gorgeous building. The doors were open so I peeked in... it was the school gym!A stream ran through the park where kids collected tadpoles. Wow. Is this the School for Super Rich Kids of Tainan?
The Town of Nankunshen
Learning from my experience of being lost in Lukang, this time I wrote the characters for a temple I wanted to go to on a piece of paper so I could show it to the bus driver and get off at the right stop when we got to the town of Nankunshen. The guidebook said it was a 40 minute ride, so naturally I started getting worried when I didn't see any road signs for the city I wanted to go to even after an hour on the bus. Had I missed the stop or gotten on the wrong bus? When I showed the bus driver the temple name, he shook his head. That's all. I continued to worry.

It turned out okay though. The bus ride actually took 80 minutes so the guidebook was wrong, and the bus driver let me know where to get off.The guidebook said this temple is known for the exuberant displays of ritual devotion by worshippers that flock to the temple on Sundays. It was Sunday, but no self-mutilation or people screaming or convulsing. Shoot, I was really hoping for some craziness.

The woman is carrying a pair of those crescent-shaped fortune-telling blocks that people pray with and throw onto the ground. The yellow incense made this temple all smokey and stinky, too.The stone carvings on the walls and pillars gave it a real Indiana Jones feel, and the black soot from years of incense smoke was a nice touch. Someone threw some "ghost money" into the incense pot just before I took the photo. Perfect!Again, fascinated by the craftsmanship of carvings in stone pillars.There was a newer part still under construction. Beautiful setting, and all wood instead of stone.I wasn't sure if I could explore this area because of the yellow tape blocking the way. Usually this means NO ENTRY but perhaps in Taiwan this means "COME IN!" so I went under the tape and walked around.The doorways were all different shapes, looking somewhat traditional yet modern at the same time.From up here you could see how big the whole other part of the temple was, and in the foreground some of the new part that they're still digging up.
Ladies with snails
There were ladies with food carts at the entrance to the temple. Every one of them sold the same thing: boiled snails and green moss. I was the only person walking out of the temple at that time and had all of their attentions. They thought that calling to me and holding out a ladle of snails and green slimey stuff would make me rush to buy some, and I'm sure it just boggled their minds why this tactic wasn't working on me. I took a photo, but it just turned out too dark because of the way the sun was setting. Sorry, no delicious snail treats photo.

Coolest shoe store ever
Back in Tainan the parades were still going strong. I went shopping at a nearby department store that had some super cool shops, like this totally awesome shoe store. It took up the entire 10th floor. Club music blaring, velvet sofas, leather armchairs, and dozens of aisles of shoes on lighted platforms and in glass cases. The lighted stands were suspended from the ceiling on wheeled rails, and they automatically rearranged themselves every few minutes. Simply unbelievable.
Girlfriend, anyone?
The hotel phone rang. It was the old man from the elevator the previous night. "I introduce you girlfriend?" Persistent little fella. No, I really don't need a girlfriend tonight either, thanks for asking.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

You were talking about Confucian temple tonight and here it is!